We drove southward along the Alaskan Highway back the way we had come toward Watson Lake. Along the way we traversed the tiny stretch of the Alaskan Highway that we had not covered yet. This was the stretch we missed when we went down to Skagway via Carcross. It was only about 20 miles or so but it did complete the full 1422 miles from Dawson Creek to Delta Junction. There wasn’t much new to see along the way although we did cross the Marsh Lake Dam which is purported to be the source of the Yukon River by some. And the lake itself is much, much larger than the name implies.
We did stop at one site that we had passed on our way north. The Rancheria Falls Recreation Site was a nice little stop with a short boardwalk trail out to a pretty little waterfall. (Of course, there are two waterfalls near the Bolt Hole that are about the same size—15 to 20 feet—so this one didn’t exactly impress me overly much.) Still, it was a good spot for us to have our lunch.
Rancehria Falls Recreation Site
The FallsWhen we arrived at the Baby Nugget RV Park just short of Junction 37, we could see smoke rising off to the southeast. At the time, Terry said, “That right where we are supposed to go!”
Sure enough, we learned that Highway 37 which was to take us down to Iskut was closed due to forest fire and no one knew when it might be reopened. We enjoyed a great spaghetti dinner at the Wolf It Down restaurant before sitting around and speculating as to when—IF—we would be able to get through on Friday.
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Day 52: Friday, July 30
The answer was, “NO!” Highway 37 south remained closed between mile 16 and 50 so we sat all day at the Baby Nugget and smelling the smoke as the wind shifted slightly. It could be worse. At least, the fires are still some 20 miles away and it is not raining where we are. Of course, rain would be welcomed by the fire fighters but it would put quite a damper (no pun intended) upon an already souring mood among the folks in the caravan.
There is some hope that the road will be opened tonight or tomorrow (Saturday) morning but to get back on schedule for a planned dinner and bear watching excursion in Stewart-Hyder on Saturday, we’ll have to travel some 400 miles. For some, this will be too long and they will stop at Iskut about 200 miles on the way. Iskut was supposed to be our Friday night stop.
One couple decided soon after this afternoon's briefing that, instead of heading southwest, they will end their caraventure here and start heading home via Dawson Creek to the southeast. The little trip down to Stewart-Hyder and then Prince George would take them further west away from home. They are good folks and Terry and I will miss having Peggy and Gene around this next week. They were talking about going to Nova Scotia and the Maritimes next summer, so we may yet run into them. Certainly, they will be on our mailing list for some time to come.
Needless to say, our evening pot luck--with finger (?) foods predominating--was a slightly somber affair as we contemplated getting up at 4 AM on Saturday and the departure of some really good people.
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Day 53: Saturday, July 31
We had word that the road would be open early Saturday morning so we woke up very early (4 AM!) intending to get on line to make the our way southwest on 37. Most of us were on line by 5 AM—waiting. There wasn’t a breath of a breeze at that hour and there was little smell of smoke. Even the horizon appeared somewhat clear of the dirty orange-grey-brown smudge that had been present the night before. But the road remained closed. At 6:45, a ministry of forestry truck appeared but the driver parked in front of Sally’s Café to wait for 1) Sally’s to open and 2) a second truck to show up. That second truck showed up at 7:30 AM. Then they both headed down to the south end of the fire so as to 1) scout the seriousness of the situation and 2) lead the vehicles down there north. Before they left, however, one of the drivers let it be known that there was little likelihood that we south-bound folk would get started before 8:30 AM…if then. Terry and I went to breakfast at Sally’s. She makes one heck of an omelet!
While we were eating breakfast, another couple from our group came around to say they were striking out on their own. Things didn't sound promising to them and they were not going to hang around any longer.
By now, the smoke had thickened and there was a pretty decent breeze blowing. The north-bound vehicles showed up around 9:15 and there were fewer of them than there were rigs lined up to go south. Still, the forestry guys said there had been several flair ups of the fire and that they were not going to allow us to head south for some time. The helicopters that they wanted to use to haul water to the fires could not get airborne as 1) the pilots were still not on base, 2) the smoke had reduced visibility to a dangerous level, and 3) cross winds made flying with a dangling bucket problematic. They had no idea when the road might be reopened.
Where we would like to have gone on Saturday.
Smoke on the horizon was an ominous sign.
Early morning line-up on the highway.
Early Morning line-up on the highway.It was at this moment that Terry and I along with several others decided at that time we had had enough and were heading out along the Alaska Highway, following the same course we had when we headed north. Seeing nearly everyone in the caravan determined to go their own way, the trip leader made a quick decision to place a few phone calls and attempt to rearrange campgrounds for us. Cancelled was a dinner planed for Stewart, bear viewing in Hyder and a trip to a glacier also in Hyder.
By 10:10 AM we knew we would have a place reserved for us in Fort Nelson which was some 350 miles to our south. And off we went! With a couple of stops for fuel, and one long delay due to construction, Terry and I pulled into the campground at around 5:30 PM. We got set up and then took Bruce and Sue (who had left us at around 7:45 AM to go their own way) to dinner at the campground restaurant. Now that they are back with us, they will go on down to Dawson Creek tomorrow (a mere 280 miles). Our caravan leader has arranged for an additional day in Prince George where we were originally going to end our trip, but several folks have decided they will head southeast instead and start making their way home. A few of us have to travel to the western parts of the US and so will go on to Prince George and points south.
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Day 54: Sunday, August 1
Woke up at 6 AM this morning at Ft. Nelson to the pitter-patter sound of rain drops on the roof of the trailer. It wasn't much, but it was a welcome event since for residents of British Columbia.
We packed up quickly lest the rain intensify and headed on down the road to where our caraventure started: Northern Lights RV Park in Dawson Creek. It was "only" 280 miles away.
The rain did intensify but the road was excellent with only a few short spots where there was construction going on and the surface was gravel and mud. No sooner would the rain rinse the dirt off the truck and trailer than we would get to one of those spots and the mud would again discolor the vehicles. Made me feel like I was back home in Pennsylvania.
Luckily, the last 30 miles or so, we had no muddy stretches so we got pretty clean before getting into the campground and heading out to do some quick shopping.
We've a briefing this evening to discuss plans to get to Prince George from here. I'm pretty sure there will be quite a few couples who will decide to end their trip tomorrow at Dawson Creek and our leader's wife was out and about asking just who was going to go on and who was not.
PS:
Terry just checked with www.driveBC.ca and Highway 37 is still closed to traffic as of 4 PM Sunday afternoon.
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